Best Kona Destinations: Place of Refuge

The Place of Refuge is a fun, family-friendly destination on the Big Island near Kailua-Kona.  It is a beautiful, historical spot that visitors of all ages will enjoy.  Plan to spend about an hour and a half here exploring the old Royal Grounds and heiau.  The Refuge is also a National Park known by the Hawaiian name of "Pu'uhonua o Honaunau."  The entrance fee is $5 (per vehicle).

This ancient place has an aura of peacefulness and magic.  The refuge was a sacred area where law violators could flee to obtain sanctuary from pursuers.  Many women and children, kapu breakers, and men too feeble to fight in war sought shelter here from certain death.  The grounds are gorgeous, with graceful palm trees, fish ponds, impressive carvings, reconstructed buildings, and an impressive lava wall.  

Bring your camera - there are a lot of photo opportunities here.  I recommend visiting in the morning when the air is cooler and the light is good for pictures.  To learn more, visit the national park's website at: www.nps.gov/puho.

There is a rocky beach within walking distance of the entrance to the park called Two-Step.  This is not a sandy beach, but it's good for snorkeling.  If you want to swim, go south to Hookena Beach Park or just a couple miles north to Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park.

Directions from Kailua-Kona:  Take Queen K/Mamalahoa Hwy 11 south to Napoopoo Road.  This road is easy to miss - look for a sign that says Kealakekua Bay.  The road snakes down to the beach.  When you get to the bottom of the hill, there will be a fork in the road, go right towards the ocean.  When you get to the ocean at the dead end, turn left onto the 160 hwy (a one-lane dirt road).  Travel this little road for a couple miles and the Refuge will be clearly marked by a sign on your right.

Best Kona Beach: Kua Bay ("Kehaka Kai")

If you visit Big Island and stay at a Kohala resort, you'll have a beautiful white sand beach within steps of your hotel room. But residing in Kailua-Kona is different. The good beaches in Kailua town are either hidden behind condo complexes or too crowded and touristy.  

Adventurous people willing to drive about 10 miles north will discover gorgeous beaches at Kehaka Kai (Kona State Park). There are two entrances into the Park via a southern road and a northern road.  The southern route is comprised of an unimproved and extremely rocky road.  The Northern road is paved and nice.  A car can make it over the south road, but it's slow going - like 5 mph - and takes at least 15 minutes to navigate. But all is well worth it when you see the beaches here.  In my opinion, the northern beach is the easily best swimming beach on the island.  It consists of gently sloping white sands leading to calm, crystal-clear blue water.

Southern Route: There's a trail-head before the bathrooms which will take you to the rest of the park and Makalawena ("Mak") beach. Plan on walking this trail unless you need a BBQ pit. If you're not barbecuing, park at the trail head or in the lot and walk to the trail head.

The park has picnic tables, trash cans, bathrooms, and lots of beach, trees, and sand. It's beautiful here and fun. There is plenty of shade throughout the day. Bring your snorkel and reef shoes - the fish here are big and colorful. Don't bring a boogie board unless you're going to Mak (and even then I wouldn't bother - the trial is long and most beaches have sharp reef). Go to Hapuna instead.

If you plan to walk the trail to Makalawena, some advice. Get to the Park between 9:30-10:30am before it gets too hot. The Mak Trail is through black lava, which makes for hot hiking conditions. The beach is not crowded - but after noon the tourists who lazed around for a fancy breakfast filter in.

Bring some food and plenty of water. Plan to spend 3 hours here.

Northern Route (Kua Bay): The entrance is unmarked from the highway and easy to miss.  From Kailua-Kona, head north past the airport.  Pass by the southern road to the park (i.e. the road w/the sign that says Kekaha Kai State Park).  Turn left when you see the West Hawai'i Veterans Memorial Cemetery (about mile marker 89).  There is a small sign that says Kehaka Kai at the beginning of the road (not visible from the highway).  The road is relatively short, new, and easy to travel.  The beach here is unbelievably beautiful and perfect for swimming.  This is my second favorite swimming beach on the island. There is a fun rock to jump off of into the ocean.  Bring a beach umbrella for shade.